Unique Loagan Bunut an attraction to nature lovers

Nestled in the quiet beauty of the silent forest in the interior of Miri, the Bunut Lake at Loagan Bunut National Park (LBNP) welcomes visitors with its still waters and serene scenery. Legend has it that the lake was formed by a boat used by the Berawan, an Orang Ulu tribe, when hunting. Since then, the lake has been a fishing spot for the Berawan. “Loagan” in Berawan means lake. Covering an area of approximately 650 acres, Loagan Bunut may not be the largest in the world, but it’s an extraordinary lake.

Burial ground: Pulau Bukit Tengah at Loagan Bunut where high caste Berawans were buried in the old days.

The depth of the lake is heavily influenced by Sungai Bunut, Sungai Teru, Sungai Tinjar and Sungai Baram, where water levels are subject to seasonal fluctuations. Sungai Bunut is a tributary of Sungai Teru, Sungai Teru a tributary of Sungai Tinjar, while Sungai Tinjar is a tributary of Sungai Baram. According to past accounts, the lake would experience wet and dry seasons from two to six times a year with its water level at its centre varying from a low of 0.5 to a high of three to four metres. The water level at Loagan Bunut is usually lowest in the months of February and May or June. These periods of low water last for about two to three weeks. When the prolonged dry periods are at their peak, Loagan Bunut can become a huge expanse of dry cracked mud.

High and dry: During prolonged droughts, the Loagan Bunut changes altogether.

Fish is aplenty in the lake. However, the fish population also fluctuates as a result of this unique situation. This extraordinary situation, however, did not happen in 2010. The lake is within a 10,736ha totally protected area which was gazetted as a National Park on July 1, 1990. The whole area comprises 80% peat swamp forest, 10% lowland mixed dipterocarp forest and another 10% secondary forest. It provides for wetland conservation including some totally protected species of animals and plants which are endemic to the park. The park supports a fairly large and varied bird population including darters, bitterns, egrets, herons, pied hornbills and kites.

Still effective: A floating hut and the ancient selambau fishing method of the Berawan at Sungai Teru.

It is said that the primates are mainly gibbons whose long arms enable them to swing from one tree to another. According to the park rangers, the loud piercing calls from the females gibbons were commonly heard in the early morning. Other animals that can be found include the barking deer, bearded pig, sambar deer, argus pheasant, long-tail macaque, black barded langur, lesser mouse deer, small-tooth palm civet and giant squirrel. This remote park beckons those in search of something different. The lake and its surrounding areas are vibrant and scenic, both during high and low water levels.

A major cultural attraction is the unique and traditional method of fishing called selambau, which is still being practised by Berawan fishermen. Selambau was developed to harvest migrating fish along Sungai Bunut and Sungai Teru during the fluctuating water levels. This technique has been used for centuries and has enabled Berawan fishermen to manage this unique fishery effectively and sustainably for many generations. Visitors can also choose to take a boat ride around the lake passing through historical sites like Lejeng (wooden pillars), Pulau Bukit Tengah, the Berawan ancient burial ground and the local Berawan settlement.

However, there are certain taboos that need to be observed when visiting the lake. Visitors are advised not to put on any red clothing or one may get ill or die. A few years ago, a group of visitors was said to have wanted to take a boat ride around the lake and one of them was wearing a red shirt. Before they even started their journey, black clouds appeared above the lake, followed by a thunderstorm, forcing the group to cancel their ride. Superstition aside, a boat ride on the lake is a must. During evening boat rides, you can stop at a private homestay owned by Loagan Bunut longhouse chief Meran Surang to watch the scenic setting sun. It is said that occasionally, fire balls could be seen in the sky above the lake in the late evenings.

At the park, visitors can bird-watch in the morning or visit the famous Berawan floating hut and selambau. LBNP also offers jungle trekking along Tapang Trail (260m), which is a 30 to 40 minutes walk; Belian Trail (720m), 40 minutes to one hour walk, and Hydrology Trail (2km), one to two hours walk. During prolonged drought, visitors have the opportunity to walk barefoot across the dry cracked mud lake, to get a feel of the simple pleasures of life long forgotten by many. It can be an exhilarating experience, especially for first timers. Although LBNP is accessible by road from Miri, it is not popular yet compared to other national parks. The journey, half of which is on a bumpy and gravel road, takes about three hours. Most visitors come for a day trip from Miri but for those who prefer to spend their night at the park, they can choose to put up in a chalet or hostel.

-thestar online.