Kapit offers plenty for tourists and adventure seekers

THE sunset in the mountainous Kapit Division with the Rajang River in the foreground, offers a breathtaking view at dusk. Located inland of Sarawak, Kapit is a charming rural place that one should visit to appreciate the state’s unique geography and culture. It is home mainly to the Ibans with a handful of Chinese, Malay, Melanau and Orang Ulu – thus visiting the division can be an enriching cultural experience as well. Kapit is also synonymous with the most expensive freshwater fish in the state, Empurau, which cost more than RM500 per kilogramme! This is due to high demand for its delicious flesh.

Scenic: Magnificient view as the sun sets in Kapit.

The difficulty in catching this fish also contributes to its price as it is a slow-growing species and very particular about its habitat and breeding ground; preferring clear running water and where its favourite food, the Engkabang fruit, are available. Kapit is the seventh of 11 administrative region in Sarawak and it is the biggest division spanning an area of about 40,000sqkm. It is has three districts namely Kapit, Song and Belaga, and two sub-districts Nanga Merit and Sungai Asap.

To reach Kapit, one has to travel to Sibu Division either by air, land or river and then board an express boat that is available from as early as 5.45am and ends at about 2pm. A trip cost between RM20 and RM30 depending on seating class – first, second or economy. There are several express boat operators servicing the route almost hourly. The 126km journey along the longest river in the country, Rajang River, takes nearly three hours. River transportation is the only mode of transport to Kapit for most people but plans are on the way to build a road from Kanowit in Sibu division to Song and to Kapit.

The past captured: A large painting depicting the history and culture of Kapit being exhibited at Fort Sylvia.

As one leaves the modern and bustling town of Sibu, the landscape along the riverbank also changes. One will pass by many longhouses as well as timber mills and log ponds, and the lush secondary forests and fruit trees. In Kapit, life starts early. In the town area, one can hear the shutters of shops being pushed up for business as early as 5am; while by 6am the earliest passenger express boat leaving for Sibu will honk intermittently and calling for passengers to board until it leaves the terminal at 6.40am.

Going around Kapit town is easy as everything from places of interests to budget hotels, eateries, shops and government offices are all within walking distance. Among others, the wet market or Pasar Teresang is a must-visit place in Kapit town. It is just a few minutes walk away from the passenger express terminal and even at the break of dawn, it is already bustling with life. Every market is unique and has a story to tell. So do spend some time chatting with the traders who are very friendly.

Colourful local handicraft: Iban and Orang Ulu handicraft are available at Kapit’s wet market, Pasar Teresang.

There are many fresh jungle produce which one cannot find in other wet markets. The hawkers at the market particularly the Ibans are rich in traditional knowledge. If one is looking for a natural flavour enhancer, there is a plant the locals called ‘Tubu’. The locals also love to cook their fish and shrimp with leaves plucked from the forests like ‘Riang’ and ‘Rampo’ which they claim make dishes very palatable. Local handicrafts are also sold at Pasar Teresang from traditional Iban and Orang Ulu rattan products to colourful bead bags.

Another place within walking distance is Fort Sylvia, which was built in 1880 by the second White Rajah, Charles Brooke. Formerly known as Fort Kapit, it was built to prevent the Iban from expanding upriver into Orang Ulu territory. Over the years, the fort witnessed both punitive expeditions and peace treaties with the final one made on Nov 16, 1924 – the Kapit Peace-making between the Iban and Orang Ulu. Fort Sylvia, made from Sarawak’s famous ironwood, ‘Belian’, also withstood onslaught of floods in 1887, 1934, 1961 and 1983 with water levels clearly marked on the front wall of the fort.

Today, the fort is under the care of the Tun Jugah Foundation, which has turned it into a mini museum. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday between 10am and 12 noon, and 2pm to 5pm. Among others, it exhibits documents relating to the history of Kapit, heirloom jars, brass cannons and photographs of prominent people from the division like the late Tun Jugah Barieng. To learn more about the state and division’s history, head down to Kapit’s Civic Centre which also houses another museum which is open during office hours. A trip to Kapit will not be complete without visiting one or two longhouses either in Kapit district itself or neighbouring districts or sub-districts. So, ask the locals around or the budget hotel proprietors or staff for assistance to find your way to these longhouses. One of the recommended longhouses is Rumah Bundong. It is one of the oldest longhouses in Kapit, some 40km from town. An hour’s walk from this longhouse is the 50m-high Wong Tinggi Waterfall.

Kapit community leader Temenggong Lau Kah Kii, 70, said the division is a pleasant place to visit because it is safe and friendly. “Everyone knows everybody here,” he said. Central Region Hotel Association Kapit deputy chairman Sylvester Law said the division has many tourism potential ranging from history, culture and nature. However, he said to develop tourism in the division required better coordination among stakeholders among the government and private sector including passenger express boat operators. “We in the private sector cannot develop tourism on our own. We need all the help we can get like from the Sarawak Tourism Board, Kapit District Office and Resident Office to promote Kapit in the country and overseas,” he said.

He pointed out that one of the main points was to set up a tourist information centre or counter at the wharf so that tourists could ask their way around and get some brochures or the town map. “The wharf is the best place because it’s the arrival ‘hall’ for everyone to Kapit,” he said. Law said Kapit also lacks trained tourist guides which must be addressed by all stakeholders so that visitors will get the best out of their trip and have a memorable stay. “We need proper tourism facilities like training centres for front liners and a tourist information centre, and guidelines for stakeholders,” he reiterated. He believed tourism could be a booming industry in the quaint and peaceful division.

-thestar online.