Five-star durian shack

Chef Wan together with Yue and Golden Sands Resort general manager Keith Tomkies at the launch of the durian shack.

King of Fruits at a holiday resort? Alan Teh Leam Seng follows his nose to unearth a durian-cum-hotel package

“RED prawns, melons and a king?” I can’t help myself from wondering what a group of loud, chattering women were talking about as they walk past me. “Perhaps they are on their way to afternoon tea,” I tell myself though the meal combination does sound strange.

I continue walking and a few minutes later, I catch a whiff of something very familiar — durian! I just cannot believe my nose. The King of Fruits at a renowned resort at Batu Ferringi? Impossible! It is only when the aroma become significantly stronger that I am convinced that The King is lurking somewhere nearby.

BEST OF THE BEST

My “sniffing” soon brings me to a secluded spot in between Golden Sands Resort and Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa. I see a large wooden shack under the shade of a row of mango trees. Looking closer, I spot the same group of women and several others feasting on, what I can now confirm, durian! Judging from the mountain of durian shells piled on their tables, it is evident that they are having a really good time. The rotating ceiling fans and wash sink complete the set up.

I take some time to browse through the rows of display shelves where each different variety available for the day is carefully labelled — Red Prawn, melon shaped Hor Lor, Kung Poh, D2, D24, Ang Bak and Musang King. Now everything falls into place. The women were talking about durian. No wonder they were in such a hurry.

A hotel employee tells me that the fruit comes from Balik Pulau, where the best of the best Penang durian is produced. At the durian shack are David Wong and his wife from Hong Kong. They tell me that in Hong Kong, a single durian costs HK$200 (RM80), so they are very fortunate to have the chance to sample so many varieties at one time.

Wong says that Hong Kong folks prefer sweet durian and his top picks are the Xiao Hong (Little Red One) and D24 varieties.

GOING TO THE ROOTS

Sensing my interest, Shangri La Penang’s director of communications, Suleiman Tunku Abdul Rahman, offers to take me to Balik Pulau to see a durian orchard. The journey takes less than half an hour and there, I meet Red Farm Orchard owner Teo Wan Peng.

While walking in the orchard, Peng advises me to be constantly vigilant. “Dive for cover if you hear any cracking sound above you as a ripe durian may be falling,” he cautions.

I look at him in horror but he smiles and tells me not to worry as the fruit usually falls early in the morning before 5am as the sudden drop in temperature causes the ripe ones to dislodge themselves from the branches. The fruit rarely drops in the afternoon. Phew!

I am completely surrounded by trees heavily laden with fruit. I notice several trees with strings tied to each individual fruit.

Peng tells me that farmers pay for contract workers to climb up the trees and manually tie each fruit to prevent them from dropping when they ripen. This prevents the prized fruit from damage and increases their value. Peng says fruit harvested this way usually taste sweet.

Durian, it seems, acquire a bitter flavour when it falls and hits the ground. The impact causes a chemical reaction that makes the flesh slightly bitter, a major component of the complex structure much prized by connoisseurs.

Peng has over 300 durian trees in the 11-acre orchard. He also grows mangosteen, passion fruit, pineapple, rambutan, jackfruit and nutmeg plants as well as keep fish ponds.

The orchard, located at the 18th Mile Balik Pulau Road, sits largely on a hill slope and visitors tread gingerly through steep terrain. The surroundings are peaceful and the sound of running water from a nearby brook make this a nice place to visit even if it is not durian season.

FINGER LICKING GOOD

Over a sampling of several durian varieties, Peng explains that not all trees produce fruit of the same quality. Mature trees of 30 years or older, produce higher quality fruit with a stronger aroma, better flavour and thicker, creamier flesh than younger trees.

Peng deftly opens each fruit with a short, sturdy knife and names the variety we are about to sample.

We try five different types — each with its own distinct flavour which ranges from sweet to bittersweet. The best part is licking the thick, sticky yellow flesh from my fingers!

The oblong-shaped Hor Loh (Winter Melon) is very sweet in taste and creamy in texture. This is in contrast with the Ang Heh (Red Prawn). This popular variety has an aromatic, orange-red hue while its flesh has a firm texture and bittersweet taste.

This is my first time tasting the renowned Musang King and its taste and aroma do indeed befit the mountain of praises I have heard before. Its light yellow flesh has a bittersweet taste and it is very creamy in texture.

Those who have yet to taste Penang durian can make a note in their calendar as this year’s season is expected to peak this month and orchard owners already have a long list of customers, all impatiently waiting for their turn to sample the best of Penang durian.

Eat all you can

The eat-all-you-can durian session at the shack located between Golden Sands Resort and Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa is part of the resort’s Durian Package.

Its communications director Suleiman Tunku Abdul Rahman says the package is the brainchild of Rasa Sayang Resort And Spa general manager Elanie Yue.

“She wants to give guests an opportunity to enjoy the highest quality Penang durian without having to go through the trouble of going from stall to stall to find the best,” he adds.

The durian shack was launched by celebrity chef Datuk Redzuawan Ismail, a.k.a Chef Wan.

Those taking up the package will also enjoy a stay in superior hillview, deluxe sea-facing or executive seaview rooms, daily buffet breakfast for two at Garden Cafe, one complimentary three course set lunch for two at Sigi’s Bar and Grill and one complimentary durian session for two on the second day of the stay (3pm-5pm). The package is available until Nov 30.

Call 04-888 8888 or email reservations.gsh@shangri-la.com or reservations.RSR@shangri-la.com

-nst online.